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- Remove glue splotches before staining (stain will not color glue).
- Use a low-angle “raking” light to identify glue splotches and blemishes.
- Seal resinous knots with a shellac-based sealer.
- Apply a filler to open-grain woods (e.g., oak) for the smoothest possible finish.
- Use a test strip of wood to assess the color and quality of the stain and top finish.
- Reduce stain splotching in pine by applying a washcoat sealer or a gel stain.
- Sponge wood and resand when dry to minimize grain-raising from water-based finishes.
- Sand end grain to a finer grit to prevent excessive stain darkening (or use gel stain).
- Apply a washcoat to end grain to prevent excessive stain darkening.
- Finishes containing oil (including varnish) yellow over time.
- Most woods darken as they age.
- Arrange pieces horizontally to reduce runs and sags (especially when brushing).
- Use shellac or lacquer if repairability and reversibility are most important.
- Use water-base finish for low toxicity, non-yellowing, and ease of clean-up.
- Use lacquer or dewaxed shellac for the best clarity and rubbing qualities.
- Use pure oil finishes for the “natural” look (at the expense of protection).
- Use polyurethane if you want an inexpensive, very durable, very protective finish.
- Use spar varnish or paint for the most durable outdoor finishes.
